Les Chiens de Paris and other observations

  

Along the way, I made some friends. We didn't speak the same language, but most of them let me take their picture. And their proud parents were happy to have their "children" photographed. There is something special about "dogs" in any country.

As you can imagine, I've had an incredible experience and some humorous moments. The first day I was here, I was hit by a bicyclist who was riding on the sidewalk, around a corner while smoking a cigarette. I, obviously, wasn't hurt, but momentarily thought he was going to burn a hole in my coat. It didn't happen and the man apologised profusely.

I have come to believe the reason Parisien women have "skinny" legs is because, from birth, they have been required to climb the stairs of the Metro. It is eqivalent to a daily exercise on the Stair Master. In the beginning, my thighs burned on every step. Now, much better. Walking everywhere helps too. I've also learned that the French do not (against the law, perhaps) use high fructose corn syrup in their food production. At any rate, things here are not as sweet. Tasty, certainly. Also, they are particular about food code violations. To be called "chocolate", the product must have a certain percent of cocoa. That's probably why it is so delicious.

Speaking of food, the French eat out a lot. In the mornings, it's cafe au lait or espresso etc. with a croissant; at noon, they eat their big meal "au restaurant" and in the evening, they basically snack. So, today, in French fashion, I went to Chez Paul. This restaurant is famous for its potatoes and the review gave it 5 stars. I was seated in a corner but very near 2 business men who were half way through their lunch. I was hoping to hear their conversation, but the place was crowded; I couldn't understand a word. I looked at the menu and decided on "le plat specialite" - the house special. When the dish arrived at my table, I gasped. I had ordered "Steak Tartare". Before me, there was a pile of ground beef, uncooked along with "salade" and, of course, potatoes in a scalloped form. I told myself, "when in Rome..." and dug in. It was delicious. There were finely chopped onions and herbs and all kinds of seasonings. The potatoes were sumptuous too. All in all, it was terrific.

I find it interesting that two incredibly difficult but memorable events occurred during my stay: the Japanese Earthquake/Tsunami and the Libyan Air Strikes. These events remind me, daily, that we live in an uncertain and very fragile world.

Even though I feel I've learned many things, I continue to struggle reading a map. Unlike loggerhead turtles, who evidently can find the route to the Sargasso Sea immediately after birth, even if there in the wrong hemisphere, I sometimes travel miles on foot to locate a famous monument.

I think the French, like the Canadians, have a rye sense of humor. They are very self-deprecating. On one occasion, my teacher asked me if I liked the view from Sacre-Coeur. I told her there were low lying clouds and I couldn't see the city. She asked me if I was sure it wasn't pollution.

Unfortunately, I found, much too late, watching the French cooking TV Channel extremely helpful in understanding the language. The cook speaks slowly while mixing the ingredients and the visual of the food and the prep gives additional clues to what she is saying.

This is my last blog. Thank you for all your tips and comments. I'm excited to be coming home as I miss you all.

Much Love, Sally

P.S. I only stepped in dog-doo once. Amazing.

      

Musee d'Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, and Basilica de Sacre Coeur

Friday, after class, I stopped off at the Musee d'Orsay. This is one of my favorite museums. The museum was originally a Palace, a hotel, and a RR station. Now, it is a grand museum. The architecture of the building is a work of art in itself. The museum has been open to the public since 1986. The displays of paintings and sculptures are no older than 1848. The museum feels young and fresh. The genre of art is basically the art of the Impressionists. And all the famous paintings you saw in your Art History classes are there: Courbet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Manet, Monet, Toulouse Lautrec and more. I was not permitted, (understandably so) to take pictures. If you go, be sure to rent an "audioguide".

Yesterday, Saturday, I wanted to buy the textbook that my Oral Class teacher uses. The book comes with a CD full of french speaking lessons. I was told that I could find the book at FNAC. FNAC is huge, like a "Circuit City" filled with "techie stuff" and books. I found the place on google - got the address and the metro number and left. The first FNAC didn't have books, but the helpful salesman (who spoke English as poorly as I speak French) gave me directions to the "Mother Ship, FNAC". And voila. I found the book I wanted and a LaRousse French- English Dictionary, I've been coveting.

If you look closely, you will see a name on the facade to the entry of the arcade. It says, "Claridge". That's my maiden name. I was so surprised to see it I took the photo.

On the way to the large FNAC, I walked along the Champs Elysees with all the fancy shops. I passed the Arc de Triomphe. The edifice is a monument to Napoleon's victories and the "Glory of France". In this round-a-bout, there is a street named for the general's every victory and the streets all pass through the opening of the monument. One must be a Formula One driver to navigate such a cobweb of directions. Also, people can take a hike to the top and view the city. I chose not to.

Fashion is very big in Paris. For both women and men. Behind my apartment, there are men's clothing stores one right after another, on both sides of a street.  But, this isn't unusual. They are all over Paris. I don't know why it amuses me so. Women, I get, but this obsession with men's dressing is foreign to me. I took this picture to illustrate.

Today, I went to the Basilica de Sacre Coeur. It isn't that old. It looks old because the architect designed it in a Romano-Bystantine style. It is quite beautiful and although, I took pictures, they did not come through. It was dedicated in 1919. It sits atop a butte, the highest point in Paris. When you arrive to Montmartre, you walk up a hill and then follow a series of rather steep steps. They have planted flowers a long the way and terraced the steps so you don't get the incline in one fell swoop. But what you do get is an assault by the gypsies. Unfortunately, they are everywhere selling their wares. But, not politely so. They are rather agressive and "in your face". I never look at them, but stay focused eyes straight ahead. I like to think I said, "Non, merci", but I think I just said, "Non, Non, Non". After viewing the church, I took one of my "walks" around Montmartre. "The walks" are a set of 50 different cards of walks around Paris. On each card, on the back, is a description, brief, of the things you will see along the walk. On the front is the very explicit map. It is a clever idea and I applaud the person who thought of it. They are available in other cities too. Part of the walk went by a cemetary. Very old, but with some relatively new head stones. I looked for a Gerome or Jerome, but found no such person. (Both my teachers commented on my last name, telling me it is very common in France). I did see some interesting tombs and have included a photo.

Bon Weekend

Lunch in the Sunshine

The weather in Gay Paree has been supernatural. No rain. My apartment came with an umbrella, but I have not taken it out of the closet. It has been cool, but not wet. Yesterday, was the nicest day to date. Lots of sunshine. I found the largest yarn shop in Paris and decided to check it out. The yarn shop wasn't much (very expensive and nothing I couldn't buy at home), but it was located across the street from a 16th century church, St Eustache. The church is large and in restoration as one would imagine for something that old.

After walking around the block. I was delighted to find a nice little bistro in the sunshine. I popped in and ordered lunch. Yep, a cheeseburger and "cafe creme" Just like home...except for the price. When I ordered, "la serveuse" (lady waitress) asked me how I wanted the meat cooked. I grasped for the vocabulary word to a): hope she thought I was French and to b): pray I was saying something appropriate. I answered, "A Point". I don't think I convinced the server that I could speak French, but "a point" does mean "medium". However, the word, "medium" is subjective and the degree of "doneness" must vary from restaurant to restaurant. This meat pattie would have frightened my husband. I ate it anyway. So far - no mad cow disease.

As I have mentioned before, my school is a melting pot of many cultures. I've become friendly with some of my classmates and I am always curious to hear the reasons why they left their homeland and/or landed in Paris. My friend, Kunsang, left Tibet to escape inhumane living conditions.  But the main reason they come to Paris is for "opportunity" or in other words: work. They all want to "make more money". They can't get visas for the US, but for reasons not known to me, France accepts everyone, or so it seems. But, they can't get work until they can speak the language. Thus, because of all kinds of personal reasons, our lives have intersected at "L'ecole Alliance Francais". Patricia is from Poland. She is young and hoping to get work in her field, dental technician. She lives in very cheap housing and struggles to make ends meet.  I'm sure managing day to day is very difficult.

They are all smart, hopeful and work hard. I sit next to "Terry" from Hong Kong. He is in my grammar class. He has a masters in economics from Hong Kong University. And although he will most likely return to China, he pointed out to me the difficulty of learning a language that has no resemblance in sound or appearance to the one you grew up with. It is true. Because English derives approximately 60% of our words from the French language, I can (and you probably can too) read and understand the newspaper here. For Tam, my Vietnam classmate, the pronunciation is so very difficult. She understands every word of spoken French, but will not be employable until she masters "ze french mode of speaking".

I am leaving you with one of my favorite things: The cafe creme. Enjoy

Sally

"The Marais", my neighborhood

1. I've taken you all over Paris, but, now, a short tour of my neighborhood, The Marais, arrondissement #3. The area was first settled by Jews, then gay and lesbians joined the neighborhood, and finally, artists of Paris found a home here too. It is basically all "locals", no tourists. That means the people who support the neighborhood live in this community. I call the picture, below, the center of town. It isn't the center of the Marais district, but the center of my part of the Marais. When I need something, I go here. On the right hand side of the picture is my "BNP" Bank (equivalent of Bank of America). I use my "Carte de Bleu" (Debit Card) to withdraw the many "Euros" I need. I only use cash in the neighborhood.

Downtown Marais

Le Marchand de fruits et Legumes

In France, there are "supermarkets", but in the neighborhood, one goes to vendors for specialty items. The fruit and vegetable stand is typical. And, in French fashion, everything is fresh.



The fruit is really delicious and quite pricey. The barquette de fraises (strawberries) costs about 8.50 US. (They are worth it). The Patisserie is synonymous with Paris, itself. The owner of my apartment recommended "La Fougasse" and it is as beautiful as it is tasty.

La Patisserie





On the left is the cheese house. Every cheese that wasn't
pasteurized
is in this shop. It is clean and so very well organized.
The patron is very helpful too.



Clearly, I'm not very good at writing text and adding
pictures. Please forgive me. The very bottom right
is a bistro, on the street. If you smoke, you drink
your cafe here even it it's below freezing.

At four in the afternoon, this bistro is packed.
I think it is a nice part of the
French day. Everyone relaxes,
takes a break and catches up on gossip. In a world
where populations of many cultures spend
endless hours texting, it is nice to see that
humans still enjoy each other's company.

And the first picture is me knitting. I am
waiting for my class to start. No other student had arrived.
The teacher walked in and I asked her to take my picture.
She was amused that I selected a rather vacuous
setting  to send to my family.  I know you'll
understand

Love to All of You

Sally
 

   

All fruit - a favorite place

Below is a bistro I go to when I want a delicious "creme cafe". In the morning, on the way to work, men "belly up to the bar", and drink a  cup of coffee and, "shoot the breeze" with the server.  No one sits down. It reminds me of an "old western movie".

Versailles

The Coronation of Napoleon 

Check out the ermine cape. This is the second painting of this subject. The other is in the Louvre.

McDonald's

March 9th - Wednesday

School this morning. My favorite class, Oral French. Nice class, lovely teacher. Three hours zips by. We start with a dialogue on a CD. She asks us to look for certain things. Then we listen. After hearing the CD, she asks us if we heard an accent in one of the voices. HA! (It was Canadian French). And, the answer is no. I barely referenced the meaning of the conversation. Which brings me to this evaluation. I'm benefiting from all the spoken French here, but it isn't at "light speed". When the class starts, I'm slow to pick up everything the teacher is saying, then I get more comfortable, but by the last dialogue, I'm having trouble staying with content. We had new students in our class today. A father and a son from the United States, Anchorage, Alaska and a woman from Poland. They will be here a week.

My life is fairly routine now. Here are some observations from the beginning of the trip. The majority of young people smoke (but outside - there must be a law forbidding smoking inside a public building). The sidewalk is a mosaic of cigarette butts, but Paris, generally, and, surprisingly, is pretty clean. Trucks come through the area every night and wash the streets.

The Parisiens may not be crazy for the Americans, BUT, they love McDonald's. I stopped by one for a cafe au lait and was astounded to see that this establishment was packed.  And, there were people lined up in droves. I've heard they also "adore" our "reality TV" - "Snooki" or someone with that name is very popular.

The Forsythia is blooming and I've seen early Camellias. Daffodils are up too. Paris is in the same latitude as Vancouver, BC. with similar weather and temperatures. The weather has been exceptional during my stay. Although, cold in the morning, it is sunshine in the afternoon. No rain to speak of yet.

The one thing which has surprised me is the lack of birds other than Ravens and Pigeons. I've seen one wren-like bird in the park, Champs de Mars.

The food is delicious, but one thing I ate was quite mysterious. I bought it at "La Patisserie". It looked like a wedge of quiche, but the texture was dense. I can not tell you if it was eggs, cheese, and/or potatoes. On the bottom, there were prunes. Today I went by the same patisserie and saw the unknown dish in the window. There was a label pinned to it, identifying the concoction as "Something Breton Aux Prunneaux". It was good.

I walked in the Jardin des Plantes this afternoon. The National Museum of Natural History is part of this park. I will try to visit there before I leave.

I am comfortable in my surroundings, now, and I move around my neighborhood easily. I go to school everyday and study at night. I will continue to blog when I feel that there is important information to  give. Please know how much I have appreciated the comments and suggestions you have offered. Thank you so much.

A bientot.

Sally

School Daze

My interests, now, are more about the "school work" and learning French. I really don't have time to tour, at least, during the week. This grammar class will take all my energy and I am, quite candidly, nervous about it. Last night, I rewrote the presentation that my sweet, Vietnamese partner and I had written. Our joint effort didn't make sense. I've decided the two of us, together, are like "the perfect storm" - a confluence of languages, gestures, and scribbling on paper isn't enough to make our presentation passable. It's not her fault. You can imagine that if I have difficulty hearing the language in a perfect environment,  how it must sound to me with a Vietnamese accent. Please know that I do not have "ego" invested in this presentation and I'm not sure she will agree to the new product and that's OK, but I couldn't go to sleep last night until I had written something...just in case we need it.

In class, we were discussing vetements (clothes) and those groups of people who wear certain types of clothes (e.g. formal clothing for business; creative clothing for the artist; sport clothing for the athletes etc). Then, the teacher explained that one couldn't always count on the stereotype to be true. That business people wear sports clothes etc...you get the idea. Then she wrote a French expression on the board. I think it went like this: L'habit ne porte que le moine, which loosely translated means: The nun wears only the habit or "what you see is what you get". So far so good. Then she asks me if there is a similar expression in my culture. Let me diverge for a minute. NPR (public radio) had a story on the brain and how it works better under pressure. Someone had scientifically proven that people who take tests with a full bladder perform better. I did not have a full bladder, but I was under pressure. I answered, in French, that we say, "one can't tell a book by its cover", (on ne peut pas raconter un livre par sa couverture). I think I butchered it. She didn't say anything. I was happy I said something.

I have found an amazing "deal". At school, I can buy a cafe au lait for 1 Euro 10 c. Of course, that's $1.65 US, but still a good deal...no cookies, however.

Other Little Tid-bits:

If you come to Paris, I would advise you to forego the car rental in Paris. Use the metro, buses, or take a cab. It is impossible to park here. PERIOD. They drive a little too fast for me and the streets are often going one-way, but not your way.

Obey all walk and wait signs. They are confusing, but may save your life.

The picture, above, is the open market. Breakfast, anyone? Below is a statue of Joffre, a general in WWI. I was told that statues of horses, after the 17th century, revealed additional info. If all 4 hooves are on the ground, then the rider survived the battle. If one hoof is lifted, he was injured, but recovered. If 2 hooves are raised, the rider died in battle. Also, above, flowers at the market. They were the most gorgeous I've seen.


I'm off to buy groceries and then to school. Have a great day.

Sally

Bike Tour

Sunday, I took the “Fat Tire Bike Tour”. It is an easy, informative introduction to Paris. You ride in a group, and make stops along the way at points of interest. There, the guide gives a brief history with humorous anecdotes. I have taken this tour before, but it was still worthwhile. One of our first stops was “Les Invalides”. It was a hospital for war veterans, but, now, holds Napoleon’s remains which lie in the very last of 5 or 6 coffins, each one smaller than the next. Evidently, Napoleon was fascinated with Egyptian burial and the protection he thought the sarcophagus offered. He also was responsible for some fashion firsts: the high-heel shoe and tights. The dome added to the building structure is garish and very visible in the city. As per usual, there are other museums and administrative offices in these large, old structures.

While I waited for the bike tour to begin, I walked 2 blocks to the outdoor market in the neighborhood. I’ve included pictures of this market. You won’t be able to assess the size, but the shops extended for blocks. Everything looked delicious. Each neighborhood is required by law to hold an outdoor market 2X a week.

We crossed the most elaborate bridge, “Le Pont Alexandre III”. It is a tribute to a French-Prussian Alliance in 1894. It is “Art Nouveau” architecture. Very ornate.

We passed Musee d’Orsay (a must see – most of 19^th century impressionists’ work is displayed there) and, of course, Le Louvre.  Since, I spoke at length yesterday about Napoleon’s apartment, I have included a picture of the façade of his building. the outside, like the inside is garish too. The photo doesn't do it justice. Hopefully I can return and get a photo of those red, velvet drapes and gold walls.


Monday - I finished my first day of Grammar class today and it was hard. Three hours of speaking french, explaining things in french and thinking in French. My brain is "mush" and I go back tomorrow for three more hours. My teacher for this course is "Mighty Mouse". She's a tiny thing, but very self-assured. Today, besides talking about French, in French, we had to write and give 2 presentations. My partner is a very nice Viet Namese girl. But, we have a definite language barrier. Talk about being "thrown in the fire". I may sound like I'm giving up, but, "non". I'm relishing this opportunity. If I work hard, I just might start picking the language up. 


But that's enough for today. I'm exhausted and I have homework. 


Bon Soir!  


Sally

Saturday - "Le Louvre"

I walked to the Louvre today. It's about a 25 minute walk. The streets, because they are at various angles and because they change their names in the middle of the block, for no apparent reason, are difficult to navigate. It's easy to get lost and I did. No problem, me thinks....just ask for directions. "Mademoiselle, Ou est le louvre?" (Miss, where is the Louvre?) A young woman answered in French that she didn't understand me. Here in lies the struggle. You think you sound perfectly fine, but it isn't enough. So this afternoon, as I was doing my weekly shopping, I popped into une librarie (a bookstore) and asked, "Est-ce que vous avez un dictionnaire d'anglais-francais?" (Do you have a English-French Dictionary?). The girl answered me in French. First time.

I found the Louvre at 10:30. You enter through the glass pyramid that was so central to the book, "The de Vinci Code". The lines were short. Note to self: go early- (the French aren't "early birds") and go at this time of year. Paris is visited most often in the summer and the lines are super long. Once, inside, you take an escalator to a lower level. It is a cavernous, reception area with kiosks in every corner. The Louvre is divided into areas of interest: e.g. paintings, sculptures, and/or periods of time. You can't see everything in one day (sensory overload) even though you buy a ticket for the day - 10 Euros/ adult. So I picked an area I was interested in. Napoleon's apartment in the Richelieu Section. There are guided tours on a cassette with earphones which are a great idea BUT, be careful. I was about to pay the 6 Euros when I asked (quite accidentally) if the tour covered the points of interest in the Richelieu Building. "No", the guide said, "it does not". So always ask first.

Before, I got to the apartment, I wandered through 16 - 17th century sculpture. It is overwhelming and the pieces are huge - "bigger than life". They have been chiseled from marble for the most part. I stared at a pair of 2 leaping stallions, each carrying a warrior. The detail was unimaginable, folds of clothes perfectly replicated. There was armor and weapons and expressions. You could see the sweat. They were probably, I'm guessing, 7-8 feet in height beyond the granite block from which they were carved. The pair of facing statues were displayed in the Tuillerie Gardens for a long time - then moved into the Louvre. I have described a sculpture, but there are thousands, just as beautiful, just as dynamic. What I'm trying to say is that they start all looking the same. It isn't fair, but I do think there is "sensory overload".

Napoleon's apartment is almost laughable. You look at the riches (everything, I mean everything is gilded in gold. You have to wonder why the Revolution didn't begin earlier - maybe the peasants weren't privy to his domicile). What isn't gold is red velvet, red brocade, crystal, porcelain and more. The walls are so lavish with gold moldings, there is no room for paintings. The coiffered ceiling is painted (like Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel different picture). Don't forget the very large porcelain lusters. It is opulence on opulence. The ceilings are 16 - 20 feet high; the drapes are red velvet. A crystal chandelier is in the middle of the main salon and must be 7 feet in diameter, layering crystal to the top of the structure. The furniture is upholstered in red velvet. The moldings are ornate - well everything is over the top. A gold, molded mirror extends from the mantel of the fireplace to the ceiling...in gold, of course. But the dining room says it all. One table, with 44 leather upholstered chairs fitting comfortably around it, graced the center of the room. There are 3 big crystal chandeliers above it.

I was finished and went to the cafeteria. I picked up a sandwich which was expensive and not worth it. Leave the Louvre and find a bistro on the outside.

Tomorrow is Sunday. I'm taking the day off from blogging. I hope you are having a "Bon Weekend".

Sally

March 4th, Friday

"Je vous presente des comarades de ma classe." (May I introduce my classmates). On the left Miss Viet Nam, Miss France, Mr. Iran, Miss Venezuela, Miss Tibet, the teacher, Claire, Mr Bangledesh and Mr. Portugal. Two students (Miss Turkey and Miss Sweden) left for various reasons. It is a great class.  I have difficulty hearing all the subtle sounds of the French language, therefore, I decided to sign up for the grammar section too. That means I will go to class every day for 3 hours - 3 days, grammar and 2 days, oral french. Because we do not have one language that we all speak, the teacher speaks in french. If you ask a question, ask it in french. She will answer you in french. This is what I need - no english what so ever. (because I like to cheat if I can). At the end of the class, we played a "guessing game". You think of an "icon" and then write out as many attributes about that icon without revealing the name - (in french, of course). I picked Marilyn Monroe. Not as well known as I would have thought. But, about 1/3 of the class chose "Angelina Jolie". Evidently, she is well-know and very popular around the world.

After class, I walked to "les jardins de Luxembourg". It was noon and sunny and clearly, a very popular spot. There are 18 hectares (a hectar is about 2.47 acres) of grounds including the Palais (designed by Marie de Medicis who was the mother of Louis XIII), tennis courts, gardens (you can look, but do not walk on the grass), multiple statues, fountains and people eating lunch. The flowers have been planted, but are not blooming yet. It felt, even to me, like a nice refuge from "the daily grind". Oh, yes, and people can smoke outdoors too. There is a lot of smoking in Paris, outside.

After "les Jardins" (gardens), I followed signs to the Pantheon, a former church, but, now, a mausoleum for distinguished frenchmen. It is a massive structure with grand columns that support the portico.  This structure took more than 30 years to build. And, the architect died before his project was completed.


I passed by a beautiful church, St Genevive, stepped inside and lit candles for all my friends and family. Then, I was on my way. Even though I had no idea where I was, it didn't matter. One finds a metro (they are everywhere), locates the line and, voila! You are home.

But, not for long. I walked to Le musee Carnavalet. It was an amazing experience. The museum is free. And filled with artifacts, paintings and relics. You begin a walking tour that takes you through the history of Paris, beginning in the 16th century. There are large models of "old Paris" and replicas of the entire city during a period in its development. The model is under a large class case, but one gets a feel for size and congestion. (the street widths are very small and the housing is tight and layered). You can almost "smell the stench". The paintings are many and they give you an idea of how people dressed and station in life. The museum, is an old hotel (Hotel de Carnavalet), built in 1548 and flows from room to room and floor to floor. There are so many treasures. My favorite period was the 17th/18th century. Of course, this was a time of opulence and greed. The people of wealth lived quite comfortably while les pauvres (the poor) - not so good. However, the "rich" played an important part in advancing the "arts". The fashionable party host's guest list always included writers, painters, musicians, philosophers etc. New age ideas were discussed and challenged. It was a great venue for forward thinking. There was a bust of a rather young, very beautiful dame (very wealthy, to be sure) whose likeness to Janet Jackson wasn't overlooked by me: "WARDROBE MALFUNCTION". The dress drooped below one breast and I snickered at the many ways "history repeats itself".

But, beyond the decadence, the fall. July 1789. The Revolution. This section was truly unbelieveable. The halls and rooms were filled with paintings and china and weaponry and more. All the players were there from Dr. Guillotine to Jean Paul Marat. There was a replica of a prison room where Marie Antoinette remained until her death. (It wasn't that bad: wall paper, bedding, pillows, upholstered furniture, desk, games etc.) If you come to Paris, it is a must.

I arrived home after stopping at "La Patisserie". I purchased my breakfast which is becoming very addicting. A large gooey, bread-like, chocolat centered "roll". I try not to think that this concoction reminds me of a "cinnabon" roll when I devour it. Yum-yum!

A bientot! Sally

From "Fear" to "Friendly" - The Metro

I've come full circle. Riding the metro is as easy as breathing and as practical as a gas sipping hybrid. Everyone uses the trains and they are part of the tightly woven fabric of the french culture. I've seen women in mink, young children alone and schizophrenics ranting. Gypsys play musical instruments in hopes of a "return" for their effort and all of us, connected by this transport, sit in stony silence. It's weird and it's wonderful, but I'm no longer afraid.

The picture is signage on a gate to a park. This beautiful park excludes dogs from entering. The signage is obvious, but I liked the words beneath the picture, "even held on a leash". This is quite ironic. The French and their dogs are inseparable. And the dogs seem to have special privileges here: they are allowed in restaurants, they wear "haute couture" apparel and they have owners who are blind to their dog's excrement on the sidewalks.  There are, however, some dog parks - big ones. I was at the "Champs de Mars" which is a very large park at the south-east end of the Eiffel Tower. There, dogs run free without being tethered. Owners whistle and the dogs come running. I did see one dog, a maverick, (large Irish Wolfhound) out of control, running with the wind, He looked very happy.

I visited "La Place des Vosges". It is a very interesting, very early concept of "condo" living. There are 36 units ( 9 on each side - all identical) built around a large square (about the size of a block) in 1612. They are a beautiful red brick and stone design with steep roofs and look, today, quite contemporary. Henri IV added a covered arcade around the outsides of the buildings (a place one could walk out of the weather). These arcades house art galleries and fine restaurants today. The park is lovely with fountains and a large statue of "Henry II" on horseback in the center. It was a fancy complex for nobles then and has remained "up scale" ever since, housing such luminaries as Victor Hugo and Cardinal Richelieu.

It was dinner time for me and I decided to eat at one of the fine restaurants under the arcade. From the moment I stepped into this establishment, I had a sense that I was about to experience "the real French Cuisine". Heretofore, I have eaten at the "take-out" bars along the main drags. Not memorable at all. But this was different. La Serveuse covered my petite marble table with a lovely dansk tablecloth. I ordered Sea Bass with Thai vegetables and ooh la la. My "plat du jour" (main course), upon arrival to my seat, looked like an "oeuvre" (work of art). It was beautiful. And since I did not have a camera, I will have to duplicate this experience in order to record its beauty. And it tasted good too. I finished the meal with a cafe expresso. On the saucer, next to the cup, I found a small (mostly butter, I'm sure) cookie. The French really know how to do it right.

Alliance Francais - Language School

I had no idea how long the metro would take to deliver me to school. It is across town so to speak and rush hour too. Not that long. I left at 7:45 and arrived @ 8:15. Just time enough for a cafe au lait whose prices I'm discovering vary all over town. This time I paid under 4 Euros (still expensive - a small Starbuck's is still cheaper and there are no refills).

I arrived at school and waited in the lobby, not knowing where to find my classroom. A young, darling girl came up to me and asked me if I spoke french. I mumbled something (having become very uncomfortable speaking the language here) and asked her if she spoke English. She said no. But she was from Tibet and did not speak English. So we spoke "our french" together and it was so nice. She was personable and kind and I felt I had a friend.

We were in different classes, however, and when it was time to attend class, we went different directions. I entered the classroom with another girl who, coincidentally, was Tibetan, also. Her English was limited, so we had to speak French (C'est bon). Others filed in. There are 11 of us - everyone is from a different country: Portugal, China, Viet Nam, Venezuela, France, Sweden, Iran, Tibet, Turkey, USA (me) and Bangledesh. It is amazing. All different in our languages; all the same in our struggle to speak French.

I like my professor very much. She is nice, friendly, happy like my professor at COCC. Both are well spoken and (here's the important part) both are, especially adept at understanding the sounds that students make while trying to imitate French. I think everyone was nervous in the beginning, but by break time, we were relaxed and enjoying our fellow classmates. We will be together for the month.

Speaking of break time, one of the students passed out a candy bar to every student. It was a sweet generous moment. Nothing was said, but I couldn't help revel in the irony of the moment. Hassam is from Bangledesh.

Class ended at noon. I understood more than I had anticipated. That made me happy. However, it is a closed setting and we are focused on every word. That makes comprehension easier. Sometimes, I feel the French talk so fast their language is a continuous "run-on" sentence. This experience is all good and although I have "miles" to go, I'm glad to be here.

After lunch, I went in search of a knitting shop. I found one in the 7th arrondisement, but she did not carry any of the Bergere Patterns I was looking for. I will try other knit shops later, but I am not hopeful. Retail space must be costly. The shops are tiny and the selection slim. Unless, you sell clothes. I've decided that because people do not save for their retirement (the government provides), they spend their money on clothes. Of course I'm exaggerating, but if you could see the number of retail shops in a block, you might believe me.

At my metro destination, I disembarked, ran up the stairs and through the turnstile ("sortie") to be greeted by 3 "controleurs" (metro agents). They wanted to see my metro pass. I pulled it out. She looked at it and said in a rather nasty tone, "Where is your picture". It made no difference that I was a foreigner and struggling to understand what she wanted...She directed me to a photo machine to which I donated 5 Euros for a Mug? Thug? shot. I'm legal now.

Sally

The Sorbonne - St. Germaine Arrondisement - Bookstores

My Sleep pattern is almost normal. I woke up at 7:30. I haven't run since my arrival and decided today was the day. Looked at a map, chose a route along the Seine and left my apartment. Not many people run here, but everyone walks. And they walk fast. For a tourist, I believe that "a pied" (on foot) is the best way to see the sites. You, also, get a feeling for the town and the people. The French in Paris are of a single mind. They don't linger, don't make eye contact and never strike up a conversation with you. No one has been rude to me, but, then again, I haven't had encounters with anyone either.

The run was delightful and I crossed the Seine back and forth checking out great monuments when I came upon them. The very famous column with the God of Mercury on top is in my neighborhood. When I see him, I know I'm close to home. The monument celebrates a victory of the French during the Revolution of 1789 and is a rallying point today for other demonstrations. It is named "The Spirit of Liberty" and sits in the center of "La place de Bastille". Also, one should be mindful about running/walking in Paris because the sidewalks/cobblestone are treacherous. I saw a lady fall and twist her ankle today. It didn't look too pleasant but, then again, this is no place for shoes with heels.

Today is blustery and cold. If you want to fit into the environment you must wear a neck scarf. Men, women and children are all bundled up in scarves. Not only is it extra warmth, but I wanted to look less American, more Parisian. I found a scarf and tie it in loops around my neck when I go outside. I now ride the Metro with more confidence. I can move around with a minimum backtracking. There are a lot of homeless men (I haven't seen a woman there yet) tucked in their sleeping bags. I'm certain the RATP is not happy with their makeshift homes on the tile benches, but the Metro is warm and I've seen no one interrupt these habitats. Which makes one ponder where the government stands on this matter in of country more socialized than most.

For my excursion today, I went to the 5th arrondisement. I had lunch in an alley off St Germaine Boulevard which was very "touristy". I ordered a cheese omelet and was surprised by its size. HUGE. I am fearful that the French have forsaken "qualite pour quantite". The omelet was tasty and I enjoyed sitting and relaxing, but no one needs a 9 egg omelet. After lunch, I went to the "Musee National du Moyen Age". Unfortunately, it was closed on Tuesdays. I continued to the "Arenes de Lutece" which is a stadium dating back to the 2nd century. It is interesting because it held approximately 10,000 people at that time. Naturally, it had fallen into ruin, but was discovered more than 1000 years later and restored today as a park. You are welcome to come here and sit and relax and imagine the events that took place nearly 2000 years ago.

I stopped by a book store looking for a good English-French dictionary. I left my behind, but needed a new LaRousse. I didn't find what I needed and was somewhat surprised as this is the Sorbonne neighborhood filled with "librairies" (bookstores). I passed the Sorbonne on my walk. It is an impressive building. I fantasized that everyone inside was speaking beautiful French and fluent English.

Tomorrow is my first day of Class - 9AM sharp.

Day Two - Going Back To School!

I awoke early, around 6am. I showered and ate and anticipated an adventurous day going back to school. I needed to be at Alliance Francais by 8:30am. The school is in the 6th arrondisement and accessed by the Metro. I was a bundle of nerves. Those family members close to me know, when I was in France 6 months ago, I had a complete breakdown in the bowels of the Metro. Granted, it was after a long international flight from Seattle, and, I, standing before a metro map, which is colored lines and numbers, had no idea where I was or how to resolve it. Fortunately, my daughter was with me and she knew what to do. However, this did nothing to strengthen my confidence as far as the Metro was concerned and I have worried every day leading up to my trip about this frequently used transportation system. In fact, 4.5 million parisiennes use the Metro daily. I can tell you it is a sea of people and they all know exactly what to do. There are 14 lines, all nearly underground. Actually, they are layered one on top of another at different points beneath Paris. The first line was opened in 1903 in conjunction with the World's Fair. The number of lines increased rapidly until WWII when, they literally ran out of room. The Metro remains, today, pretty much the same, making improvements and updating as necessary. I walked to the station at "La place de Republique". I deemed it a bigger station where I could buy a "navigo mensuel" (monthly pass). I thought the pass would cost me about 12 Euros/month, but I was so wrong. The pass costs 65 Euros/month and/or 6 Euros/day. This makes more sense. The city of Seattle will charge a fee of approximately $3.50 for a one-way car trip across the Evergreen Bridge. If you are a commuter from Seattle to Bellevue, you'll pay somewhere under $10.00/day to get to work. Now, in Paris, I can go anywhere, anytime - get on or off one of the 296 Metro Stations for 65.00 Euros during my monthly stay. This makes the Metro cheap. the night before I had studied the Metro map and made sure I knew the direction and the station where I had to make a transfer. I stepped into the "Place de Republique Metro Gare" and found my way to the train. One waits for the trains a maximum of 5 minutes or less. Everything was going smoothly, until I checked the transfer station. A big red "X" across line 4, my next line. I took a deep breath, got off the train, read my map and changed the route. Not so hard afterall.

I arrived at school at 8:30. There were a thong of people. Alliance Francais begins classes every Monday. You decide what you want to take (Oral workshop and French Grammar), take a test, and pay your fees. I will be taking Oral workshop as the Grammar class was filled. There are other schools in the area and I will think about enrolling some place else next week.

On the way home, I stopped at a cafe and had a "cafe au lait" and "un pain au chocolat". I read the French newspaper that lay on the counter. M. Sarkosy, le presidente had fired one of his ministeres. Evidently, her family (La ministere is a woman) had some interests ("perks") with the Tunisia gov't and was trying to protect them during this volatile Arab rebellion. She was fired.

I walked home, used the ATM, and bought groceries. I'm feeling "Almost French".

No school tomorrow.

Sally

Day One - Explore the neighborhood

I slept to 10am. Then, I decided it was time to get to know my neighborhood. I live in a 2nd floor (actually 3rd floor - French don't count the bottom floor - our 2nd story is their 1st) walk up. The building must be very old as the treads on the stairs are worn, but smooth, in various swales. There are 2 locks to get into the interior of the building. This is very common. The street front is non-decorous, but my apartment is very nice and functional and cold. Concerned about the lack of warmth, I checked the thermostat. There were very bold instructions telling me that in winter: AUTO; summer: OFF. It must be summer now; my heating system is off. Thank goodness for "REI" down jackets!

My neighborhood is the 3rd arrondisement. I have a set of  50 "City Walks - Paris" and I chose one that features "historic" monuments etc. close-by. Paris is huge. The streets are not on a grid so they angle in all sorts of formations. The taxis use GPS; a foreigner needs a good map. The "walks" are anywhere from 1 to  3 hours. Longer walks are so indicated on the card. This walk was relatively short; I thought it would be a nice beginning. The first point of interest was the "Memorial de la Shoah". It is a moving tribute to the French victims of the Holocaust. From 1942 - '44, jewish french citizens were rounded up and sent to prison camps. The Vichy government  silently condoned this activity. After the war, people did not speak of these unspeakable crimes until decades later. The memorial is relatively recent.

Because it is Sunday and considered a family day, some of the places and museums were closed. I did walk by the manicured tapestry gardens of the Hotel de Sens and I really enjoyed hearing the children talk to their parents. I can almost understand them! Dogs are big too. I had my breakfast (croissant and cafe au lait) with a huge mixed breed with a shaggy mane and a French bull dog. They come right into the restaurant and usually eat better than their owners. The french "brasseries" (cafes) often have seating on the sidewalk outside. I couldn't imagine sitting in the cold, but there were more outside of the restaurant than on the inside. I paid my "fracture" with coins. It was 5.10 euros. I added for good measure - "c'est correcte?" Well, it wasn't. I had included some coin from Viet Nam. Thank goodness I had asked.

Along the way, I bought, at a patisserie, the traditional baguette and a delicious looking pastry. And, I've seen strawberries so big they look like they've been plumped and so red they look like they've been dyed. The price is alarming too. One dollar/ one strawberry. They must have come from Mexico.

I have television and turn it to a French channel. I like to hear the language ... and have the company too.

Tomorrow, I leave early in the morning to go to school. I take the metro and must make a transfer. It will be an adventure to be sure.

Sally

I made it!

Saturday evening. I just woke up from a nap. I needed it. It seems I was totally exhausted...but the trip was uneventful. Wasteful worrying. Unnecessary fretting. The flights were smooth; I had nice seat mates. On the last leg, I sat next to a young frenchman who works for Michelin tires. I engaged him in conversation with my limited french because this is the purpose of this trip...to be able to understand a french person speaking french at the speed of light. "Tres difficile".

But I became braver. I totally talked to the cab driver on the 40 minute ride to town. I was able to ask him about the size of Paris (5 million but 11 million if you count the surrounding area), the economy ("terrible"), the price of gas (going up), O'Bama (the parisiennes love him and Michelle too) and Sarkosy...he wanted to talk about "sa belle femme" (his beautiful wife). Most of the time and especially in my case, when they hear me speaking their french, they will answer in perfect english, but my pleasant cabbie did not.

One funny thing happened to me. At Charles DeGaulle Airport, I had deplaned and was walking down huge concourses heading toward baggage claim. I was tired from a day of jangled nerves and I was desperately trying to keep and eye on other fellow travelers also heading for "livraison de bagage" (baggage claim). (The airport is massive.) At one point I was singled out and approached by a woman pleading to me, arms open wide, eyes narrowed. I looked twice, didn't understand her confusion and kept going. I did not want to lose my way to my suitcase in the airport maze. At the carousel, the "haut parleur" (speaker) announced that there was a woman acting "deaf and dumb" and operating in the airport - Beware! Fortunately, I had missed getting entangled in an unpleasant problem. It really was an end to a perfect "Bon Voyage".

Sally

Welcome To Paris, Sally

We love you mom.  May this be the trip of a lifetime!
C'est la Vie!

Bend to Seattle

First leg Bend to Seattle. Pretty uneventful save for the fact that I left my computer in the scanner tray @ security and walked away totally unaware. A very nice TSA agent found me and returned it. Only in Bend, Oregon. Resting today with family in Seattle. The big send-off is tomorrow a.m. Seattle to Atlanta. Atlanta to Paris.

More later...